ISPSAT-HT Installation Guide
This online guide will take you through the preparation, assembly, setup and commissioning of this system! We strongly recommend that you view/download these instructions from and save them to a device that you will be using with this system for future reference! If you are not comfortable with this assembly, setup or installation process, please contact us so we can help you locate someone to assist you with this process!
Disclaimer
(This guide is for customers of Montana Satellite for ISPSAT / HughesNet systems and services on our VAR Business Internet Platform ONLY!)
If you are a HughesNet Consumer or HughesNet Business Internet Customer, these instructions will not work for you and if you even try to move your system around you will be forced to contact HughesNet to have a Certified Installer reinstall your system for you! We are only allowed to offer self-installation and portable options because WE have agreed to provide 100% of the service and support to our customers! You must not contact HughesNet for support with our systems or you will be jeopardizing our entire program as HughesNet wants nothing to do with allowing or supporting self-installation and portable use! Support contact information is located at the end of this document!
While this installation guide contains most of the information required for assembly, self-installation and activation of our HughesNet Gen5 HT2000W and HT2010W Satellite Internet Systems on our VAR Business Internet Platforms, we have additional and much more detailed information available in our support section here that includes a complete HT2000W/HT2010W modem installation and user guide as well as antenna assembly and installation manuals, assembly and installation videos and more! You will also find additional details and requirements for satellite modem and antenna locations and installation as well as grounding information and requirements for fixed installations and so on to meet or exceed FCC requirements and regulations! It’s important to know that some of the information in those other user guides and manuals, such as the OVT process and the certified installer requirements, etc. does not apply to our VAR Business Internet platform, so again, we strongly encourage you to contact us if you have any questions at all and for more information!
Contents
Required Accessories
Cable
These systems use up to 150' of single RG6 3Ghz. Coaxial Cable.
Mount
Our most popular kit includes this flat non-pen mount, but we have others also! You will need something to hold your antenna if you did not purchase a mount with your system.
Preparation
- ½” Wrench (2 recommended)
- ½” socket and ratchet (¼” or ⅜” Drive Preferred)
- 7/16” Wrench (2 recommended)
- Phillips Screwdriver
- 3mm Allen wrench
- Compass (for finding the correct azimuth)
- GPS or GPS App for installation (for entering your location into the modem)
You will need a few basic tools in order to assemble install and maintain this satellite Internet system.
Download the latest SBC File
You will need to downloaded the latest SBC (Satellite Based Commissioning) file which is available at https://lonepinetechnology.com/sbc Make sure you get the one for the HT2000W modem for your region as there are SBC files for other regions on that page as well! You will want to save it to a place on the computer, tablet, etc. that you will be installing the satellite modem with and you will need to either download the .bin file directly or download the .zip file version and then unzip the downloaded file to access the .bin and the .cfg files that are in that zipped file! You will use the .bin file later on in this process!
Select a location for the IDU (modem/router)
The HT2000w and HT2010W satellite modem has a built-in Wireless Router that has an approximate coverage radius of 1250 feet or so depending on surrounding materials, appliances, etc.! For that reason, the modem should be located in a central location to provide the best coverage to the area that you wish to have Wi-Fi access! The satellite modem needs to be in a well-ventilated and dry area with approximately 6″ of open space around it to provide for proper cooling! Do not place the modem next to a heat source or products or appliances that create heat! Keep the distance from the satellite modem to the satellite dish in mind as you will need to have enough RG6 coaxial cable to run from the satellite modem to the antenna and that distance should not exceed 150 feet or so! If a longer run is necessary, we offer RG11 coaxial cable that works well for longer cable runs! You will need 110v electrical power and the modem requires at least 75 watts of good clean power to function properly!
Select a location for the ODU (Satellite Dish)
Find a clear line-of-site for your antenna within reach of your RG6 or RG11 coaxial cable! You can use www.dishpointer.com and select the Echostar 19 (E19) satellite at 97.1 West or if you are in one of the small dead zones for E19, you can choose E17 @ 107.1 West. Once you find your location by entering your address or coordinates and selecting the satellite E19 (default), you can move the green icon around and it will show a line to the satellite. It will also give you the settings/coordinates (Azimuth, Elevation & Skew) for the antenna as well!
Choose a Mount and Mounting Type
We offer several different satellite dish antenna mounts for a variety of applications, but our most popular mount is the flat non-pen mount for our portable and some stationary customers, but any of our 2 3/8″ OD Flat non-pen mounts will work for .90m and .98m antennas, followed by the trimast wall/roof mount, and then a ground pole mount! Our 2 3/8″ OD non-penetrating ridge-roof mounts work for our .90m and .98m antennas, and go over the peak of a roof to hold the satellite dish as well! Some larger antennas require 2 7/8″ OD ridge-roof mounts instead.
Here is an overview of our most popular mounting options!
We offer custom mounting solutions as well!
We has specialty mounts to help you achieve a fast, professional, and sturdy satellite dish or Wi-Fi installation and more!
You can use one of our many opipe adapterrs to modify a new or existing pipe to get it to the right size without replacing the enite mount.
Ground Pole Mount Instructions
Ground Pole Mount: HughesNet .90m and .98m antennas require a 2 ⅜” OD Mast. 1.2m antennas require a 2 7/8” OD Mast. If you purchase a 2” Schedule 40 steel, galvanized or black pipe, that will give you the 2 ⅜” OD required for the .90m or .98m HughesNet antennas while 2 1/2” Schedule 40 steel, galvanized or black pipe, that will give you the 2 7/8” required OD for 1.2m antennas.
We recommend a pipe/pole that will extend at least 5 feet above ground, but not more than 6 feet, and at least 3 feet below ground! We recommend going deeper if you are in a location where the frost levels run deeper than that!
You will want/need to either drill a hole in the portion of the pipe that will be in the concrete or weld something onto the pipe in that area, or cut it at an angle or something in order to keep the pole from turning in the concrete while you’re adjusting the antenna! Here’s how we do it with a ⅜” drill bit and spikes through the pole, but you can do it another way if you wish, but it WILL need a spin-stop or you’ll get to start over! Detailed instructions
Assembly
Antenna Assembly
To start the installation, and after you’ve picked a spot and a mount type that will allow you to adjust the antenna and point it in the right direction, we typically assemble the antenna. During assembly, we usually set the initial elevation and skew (if necessary)! The az/el cap is the part that slides down onto the pole, mount, or mast. The Az/El needs to be assembled and attached to the antenna as follows. By the way, these instructions are for the .98m Prodelin Antenna that currently ships as the Gen5 default option. You can use different antennas as long as they are for the HughesNet Gen5 Platform. We have Assembly Guides available for other antennas here.
This is the hardest part of the antenna assembly in my opinion! You need to hold the round metal plate up under the large fiber piece while holding a bolt in place so that you can place the AZ/EL cap over it and then put a nut on it to hold it so you can do the other 4 bolts and nuts!
Feel free to remove the long elevation adjustment bolt or at least loosen the nut up enough so you can lower the elevation enough to get to the 2 nuts on the bottom. Make sure you get all 5 nuts and bolts in place!
You will see a little arrow pointing to the skew degrees, just set that arrow to 0 (zero) and tighten everything down! Round antennas like the .98m fiber antenna do not need to be adjusted for skew!
You will see a little arrow pointing to the skew degrees, just set that arrow to 0 (zero) and tighten everything down! Round antennas like the .98m fiber antenna do not need to be adjusted for skew!
Now it’s time to assemble the bracket for the lower radio support arms.
Put the long stove bolt through the bracket before mounting it to the arm.
Put the two stove bolts through the bracket and through the lower radio support arm and install a lock-washer and nut on each one! Make sure that this end of the arm is going to be oriented correctly when you’re done!
When you’re finished, it should look like this:
Install the two side radio support arms, one on each side of the dish. Then mount your assembled lower radio support arm onto the bottom of the dish. The long stove bolt goes up through the bottom of the antenna bracket on the bottom of the antenna. You can put the other long bolt through one of the radio support arm, through the middle of the arm up by where the transmitter goes and put the second arm on that end of that bolt and put a nut on it to help hold up the weight of that arm assembly while you’re putting the four bolts in and tightening up the bottom bracket if it’s easier for you.
It should look like this when you’re done with that step.
By the way…you can choose to leave the arm off of the dish and mount the transmitter/LNB on the radio arm first, as shown in the next step, then come back to this step, but it’s harder because the arm weighs more then so you might need some help.
Installing the Transmitter/LNB Assembly
Once that is in place, it’s time to mount the transmitter/LNB (Tria) to the lower radio support arm! It will slide into place and is held into place with a tiny Phillips screw from up underneath the radio. Be very careful not to cross-thread the screw or you would have to replace it and maybe even buy a new transmitter/LNB or have it re-tapped to fix it!
By the way, those pics of assembly above were not ours. Special thanks to the person that made the video that we captured the from!
Installing the IDU (satellite modem/router)
Find a place for your HughesNet HT2000W or HT2010W modem/router where it will have plenty of ventilation around it so it doesn’t overheat! You will probably want to find a central location if you plan on using the dual-band A/C wireless access point that’s built into the modem! Wireless signals typically travel down and out better than they travel up and out, so keep that in mind when finding a reasonable place for your modem, making sure your single RG6 cable can reach from the modem to the antenna location!
Install your Antenna
How you choose to install your antenna is up to you. but we usually do this now. Make sure to get or position your mount so that it’s nice and level, which will make it much easier to find the satellite during the pointing process.
Run the Cable
Run your cable between the dish (ODU) and the satellite modem/router (IDU). Be sure to use RG6 3Ghz Coaxial Cable. for us to 150′ cable runs. Single cable will do, but dual is fine also. Either way, SCC (solid copper core) cable is even better. If you want/need to go over 150′, RG11 is recommended for runs up to 220′.
You should also install the included ground block on the outside of your home or business according to local grounding codes, but you’ll need to run another coax to the modem from there if you choose to do so. We have some grounding methods explained here as well!
DO NOT CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE MODEM WHEN IT IS POWERED UP!
Connect the cables at the modem and transmitter and power it up!
Install your DAPT Meter
We no longer use or recommend the DAPT Meter, but if you have one and want to use it, please visit here for details on how to hook it up! But Here’s a quick diagram from Hughes on how to do that:
DO NOT CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE MODEM WHEN IT IS POWERED UP!
Powering Up
Power up your modem! The flat part of the connector will face the right side of the back of the modem as you are looking at the back of the modem! Connect to the modem to a computer, via an ethernet cable or you can use the wireless access point information on the sticker on the back of the modem to connect wirelessly via laptop, cell phone, tablet, etc.
Install the latest SBC File
In case you missed this step in the preparation process, you will need to have downloaded the latest SBC (Satellite Based Commissioning) file which is available at https://lonepinetechnology.com/sbc/ You will need internet access to complete this step, so you may need to disconnect from the modem, connect to another form of internet access in order to find and download the SBC file! Make sure you get the one for the HT2000W modem for your region as there are SBC files for other regions on that page as well! You will want to save it to a place on the computer you will be installing the modem with and you will need to unzip the downloaded file to access the .bin and the .cfg files that are in that zipped file! You will use the .bin file later on in this process!
Open a browser (Chrome, Edge, Internet Explorer, Firefox, Safari, etc.) and enter the following IP address into the address bar, not into a search engine like Google, Bing, etc. or it won’t work! http://192.168.0.1 and hit enter! This is a local webpage that is built into the HT2000W modem so there is no need for Internet access or connectivity to access this page! The HughesNet Modem Status Page should show up.
Click on Installation in the menu on the left sidebar to expand it and then click on Upload SBC Config
If you do not see it or are installing a previously commissioned modem, you have tp first click the hidden little “i” icon that’s to the right of the English Language Selection box at the top right of that page!
Select the .bin file that you unzipped from the SBC file that you downloaded and then click Upload
You should see a series of “OK” confirmations pop up when it has installed properly!
If you can’t see the bin file or if it fails, chances are that you did not unzip the archived file to expose the .bin file!
Preparing for Antenna for Pointing
If you are not already in the modem and can see the “Install” link in the left-hand menu… open a browser (Chrome, Edge, Internet Explorer, Firefox, Safari, etc.) and enter the following IP address into the address bar, not into a search engine like Google, Bing, etc. or it won’t work! http://192.168.0.1 and hit enter! This is a local webpage that is built into the modem so there is no need for Internet access or connectivity to access this page! The HughesNet Modem Status Page should show up.
Click on “Install” in the left-side menu unless you’re already there.
A page will pop up asking you for your Latitude and Longitude in “DMM” format! This is one of the most important steps in this process! If you get this wrong in any way or if your latitude and longitude are more than 35 feet away from your actual satellite dish antenna location, you may never find the satellite or get a signal! We have smartphone apps here that will provide you with your lat/long if you don’t have it or you can click here to figure out how to get it.
Once you have figured out your antenna’s latitude and longitude and have it in the correct “DMM” or “DDM” format, enter that latitude and longitude into the modem! Be sure to set the N or S and the W or E accordingly as well
Satellite Selection
Then near the bottom of that same page, select the E19 (Echostar 19) satellite @ 97.1 West unless you are in one of the few areas (South of Portland, OR, south of Miami, FL, parts of Wisconsin, etc.) where E19 doesn’t cover or in and in that case select E17 @ 107.1 West. There is also a net T14 Satellite that provides signal in the Bahamas and British Virgin Islands.
Once you have filled that in, click on submit.
When you continue, you will see a signal page that will show you the coordinates/settings for satellite dish antenna and it will show you signal strength! Make a note of magnetic azimuth, elevation, and polarity and take them with you out to the satellite dish antenna! If you are using an oval .74m antenna, you will also need the skew/tilt setting as well!
You will notice that on that signal page it will show you the coordinates/settings for satellite dish antenna and it will show you signal strength!
Make a note of magnetic azimuth, elevation, and polarity and take them with you out to the satellite dish antenna! If you are using an oval .74m antenna, you will also need the skew/tilt setting as well!
Antenna Pointing Process
Azimuth is your compass heading to the satellite! Even though you are probably going to be pointing to the 97.1W satellite, that’s just where it’s located in comparison to other satellites in the southern skies, so the azimuth heading is the direction you need to point your dish to see that satellite! The MAGNETIC heading is something you would use with a standard compass, while the TRUE heading is something you would typically use with a GPS. We usually stand behind the dish when we do this part! If you have a standard magnetic compass, you rotate the compass until the needle is on North and then look at where your azimuth setting is pointing. For instance, if your azimuth said 168 degrees, you will find where 168 is on your compass and you will know that that is the direction your satellite dish will be pointing to find the satellite!
Elevation is the up or down height or angle the antenna needs to the sky. The elevation setting mark is on the left side of the az/el cap! There is a little engraved line under the nut that needs to be set on whatever elevation your modem showed for your location! In this photo, the elevation is set to 33 degrees. Keep in mind that depending on how loose you left the antenna on the mast, and how level your mount is, you may need to adjust the elevation accordingly to compensate for that! I always set it a degree or two higher when I start the rough-pointing process.
Skew/Tilt is the tilt of the antenna clockwise or counterclockwise while looking at the back of the antenna! With the .98m round antennas, this setting is ignored and you simply make sure your antenna skew/tilt is set to 0. There is no adjustment for skew/tilt on the .90m metal antennas, HOWEVER… if you happen to have an upgraded .74m oval antenna, you will need to set the skew accordingly! Note that there is a + and a – setting!
Polarity: On your transmitter/LNB assembly just behind the clear plastic lens cover on the round part of the radio there is 2 or maybe 4 3mm Allen screws! If you look on the edge of that base, there is a tiny little arrow that is probably pointing to a small L on the base! That means the transmitter is on LEFT polarity! If your modem told you LEFT, then it is correct, however, if it told you R then you need to loosen/remove the Allen screws with your 3mm Allen wrench, slide the feed assembly out, rotate it ¼ turn and slide it back in and re-install the Allen screws. Some radios have an R on them for RIGHT, but some only have the L. If yours only has the L make sure your arrow is pointing at a blank spot if you need to use R. Now, this could change if you are planning on moving your antenna around! Different beams use different polarities! Also, unfortunately, Hughes has told us that this setting is not always shown correctly in the modem, so if you fight getting a signal for a long time you might try changing the polarity to see if that helps!
Rough-Pointing a HughesNet Gen5 .98m Antenna
Once you have the antenna setup and pointed in the general direction of the satellite, we usually make sure the antenna is snugged down to the mast, but leave the 3 nuts that secure the antenna to the mast, just loose enough for the antenna to turn east and west on the mast without sagging in elevation too much!
We raise the top nut on the elevation adjustment bolt several turns up and out of our way and primarily use the bottom elevation adjustment bolt to raise and lower the antenna!
Make sure you have loosened the two bolts on the left and the right of the az/el cap that secure the elevation so that you can adjust the elevation without bending or breaking anything!
If you have a DAPT meter installed (LNB port going to the radio on the antenna and the IDU port going to the modem), press the #3 on the DAPT meter.
The screen will change as it enters pointing mode. Press #3 again until you see the numbers on the left and right of the little screen on the DAPT2. If you are not using the DAPT2 then you will want to bring your computer out to the antenna so you can see the signal or you can also use a smartphone, tablet, etc. that’s connected wirelessly to the modem to pull up that page and see the signal as well!
Now that you have your antenna set up and are ready to point, let’s do a quick check and see if you’re close to the satellite! Anything under 30 signal is not seeing your satellite or locking to your satellite! A 29 signal means you are seeing one of the many satellites that are up there, but probably not the satellite you need to point to! While watching the signal, pick a direction and move the antenna ever so slowly east or west and see if you happen to see the signal jump over 30. If you see a signal over thirty, you will proceed to fine pointing mode below. If not, it’s time to search a window in hopes of finding your satellite.
First, we will explain the satellite ARC a bit so you have an idea of what you’re going to see and why and maybe get a better idea of how to find the satellite you are using for service! There are a few different ways to point a dish to find the satellite! We’ll talk about a couple of methods and you can use whatever method seems to work best for you!
The satellite ARC for North America starts low in the East to higher in the South and then back lower to the West as in the following screenshot from our DishPointer App! We purposely selected all of the satellites in the list just to show you how many satellites there are in the ARC. So, it’s easy to get a 29 signal which typically means you’re pointed to the wrong satellite. Side note, this screenshot was taken with the camera lens blocked so the red dots would stand out!
The satellite ARC for North America starts low in the East to higher in the South and then back lower to the West as in the following screenshot from our DishPointer App! We purposely selected all of the satellites in the list just to show you how many satellites there are in the ARC. So, it’s easy to get a 29 signal which typically means you’re pointed to the wrong satellite. Side note, this screenshot was taken with the camera lens blocked so the red dots would stand out! elevation without bending or breaking anything!
Here is an idea of what you can see and do with the DishPointer App. It uses your camera to overlay the satellite locations in the sky! Here we can see both E19 @ 97.1 West and E17 @ 107.1 West as well even thoughE17 does not offer coverage in our area, E19 is the default satellite for this platform anyway! Keep in mind that this app is only as accurate as your smartphone compass is and many smartphones and tablets can be 10 – 15 degrees off in azimuth sometimes!
METHOD 1 (Starting LOW) Let’s say you’re trying to point to E19 @ 97.1W. If you start with an elevation about 2 – 3 degrees lower than your intended elevation and start pointing way east of where you need to be pointing, then moving slowly west, you’re going to hit a satellite that’s hopefully east of where 97.1 W is. But if you see the signal get a 29, then you know the next satellite is going to be a ½ degree or degree higher as you move West. You can keep moving West, getting a 29 and raising a bit to get to the next satellite in the ARC and you will probably find your satellite and the signal will jump over 30. Now since E17 @ 107.1 is on the West side of the ARC, you’re better off starting far West and low, finding a 29 and moving up and East to find the next 29 and so on until you hit your satellite and bounce over 30!
METHOD 2 (High East or West) Let’s say you’re pointing to E19 @ 97.1 W. Let’s set your antenna approx. 7 – 10 degrees higher than your modem told you to set it! Now let’s start approx. 10 – 15 degrees East of where your compass is suggesting the satellite should be. Slowly move from East to West across the sky until you are 10 – 15 degrees West of where your compass suggested that your satellite should be! If you did not see anything over 29, drop 1 degree in elevation and head back very slowly to the East, and go past where you think the satellite should be! If nothing over 29, drop a degree again and head back to the West! Do this very slowly until you see it pop over 30. Continue this process until you are about 5 degrees below the elevation that your modem told you to use just in case the antennas is sagging a little more than anticipated or the mount isn’t as level as it should be!
If you did not see anything over 30, in any of the above steps, we recommend the following steps:
- Make sure nothing is blocking your line-of-site! Trees, branches, leaves, power lines, buildings and other things can block your signal!
- Double-check your latitude and longitude
- Double-check your compass heading (azimuth) Smartphones and Tablets can be off by 10 – 15 degrees, so keep that in mind!)
- Double-check your initial elevation setting!
- Make sure your skew/tilt is on 0
The only thing you can do now is start over! We recommend you power cycle the modem and start over by going to the home page and clicking on “Install” again!
Once you get over 29, it will normally hop to 35, 40, 60, maybe even 80! Get it as high as you can and then lock down the 3 bolts that secure the antenna to the mast! Your elevation might change in this process, so you can raise or lower the elevation to get it back as high as you can get the signal.
Fine Pointing a HughesNet Gen5 .98m Antenna
As mentioned above, we raise the top nut on the elevation adjustment bolt several turns up and out of our way and primarily use the bottom elevation adjustment bolt to raise and lower the antenna!
Make sure you have loosened the two bolts on the left and the right of the az/el cap that secure the elevation so that you can adjust the elevation without bending or breaking anything!
Now loosen the 4 nuts on the bottom of the az/el cap very slightly just so that you can use the azimuth fine- adjustment bolt to adjust the azimuth! Don’t loosen them too much or the antenna will lose elevation and signal! Loosen them just enough that the antenna will move using the fine azimuth adjustment bolt!
Slowly turn the bolt while watching your signal quality! ¼ turn is a LOT, so go slow! Get the signal as high as you possibly can! You may need to move it back a few times to find the sweet spot, but once you get the signal as high as you can, tighten the 4 bolts down the secure the azimuth and then go back and re-peak the elevation!
You will notice a lag spot from when you’re going east to where the bolt will tighten to actually start moving the antenna west, so it may take more than a turn to get moving in the opposite direction!
Here’s a bottom view of where the nuts are on the front two bolts that you loosen for fine azimuth Adjustment.
There are two more around back to loosen also.
You will need to play with these settings and adjustments to get the signal as high as you can get it! There is no official target value but most of our customers in most areas can get 100 – 130 or so! The higher you get it, the better, faster, and more reliable your service is going to be! If you go online you can see a million complaints about HughesNet service! 99% of the time it’s because of a shabby installation and/or weak signal that’s affecting their speeds and using up more of their data! If you have rain or heavy cloud cover, you might only get 80 or so, but spend some time on it because we want you to be a happy customer!
Once the satellite dish antenna is peaked, with all of the bolts are tightened down, we recommend that you unplug your modem from power and remove the DAPT meter if you were using one and connect the cable from your modem directly to the transmitter/LNB port! Although you leave the short cable and use the barrel connector if you want to, we do not recommend leaving the short cable and barrel connector in place as every little connection like that takes away from your signal quality!
You’re going to have to start the installation process over again without the DAPT installed to get back to where you left off!
Once you have peaked the signal as high as you can get it, click on the NEXT button in the top left to continue!
Requesting an Account for monthly Service
If you haven’t done so already, and if you haven’t already received a SAN and PIN for your account, now that we know everything is working properly, it’s time to request an account for your HughesNet Gen5 system if you haven’t done so already!
If you are like most of our customers, you are probably going to want to commission your modem to your account and bring everything up online before you head out to the middle of nowhere unless you have phone service and internet wherever you are going anyway, in case you get stuck in the process!
The monthly service plans we have available for this equipment and service are listed here! Make sure you look at how the times are allocated for the plan you are signing up for as each plan allows a specific amount of data between 8am and 6pm CST as well as anytime data! If you plan on using your system mostly in the evenings, you might need to order a larger plan since this service is a Business System and offers most of the data during business hours (8am – 6pm CST):
This is the form you use to request an account / monthly service plan! Be sure to make yourself aware of the terms and conditions of service and consider whether or not you want to pay the $400 early termination fee upfront so you can use the system on a month-to-month basis or as needed IF this applies to you and will benefit you! You can read more about the “month-to-month” option further down in this document! Here is a link to our Account Request Form:
This is our Credit Card Authorization Form that we use to allow the service provider to bill you for monthly service and any related fees and charges! You must put the amount you are authorizing the service provider to bill you monthly on this form! However, if you feel you may want to upgrade to a bigger plan later, you can enter the amount of the bigger plan on this form so that you don’t have to submit a new form just to upgrade your plan down the road! We will only bill you the amount of your current service plan! Billing is pro-rated to the 1st of the month and billed by credit card auto-debit on the 1st of every month! Our Credit Card Authorization Form link is on this page:
Activation & Commissioning
Once you receive your SAN and PIN from us, it’s time to activate the modem to connect it to your account! Power up your modem, get connected to it and go back the home page, select install and continue past the signal meter page! Click on “Terminal Service Activation” or “Service Activation” (varies by software versions).
Once you receive your SAN and PIN from us, it’s time to activate the modem to connect it to your account! Power up your modem, get connected to it and go back the home page, select install and continue past the signal meter page! Click on “Terminal Service Activation” or “Service Activation” (varies by software versions).
On the next page, enter your SAN (Site Account Number) and PIN (Personal ID Number) in the boxes when they pop up and continue!
Follow through this process until you see the screen below and just click on the System Status Screen link and don’t do anything else until you read ahead in these instructions!
The modem is going to download files, and probably reboot at some point! Do NOT interrupt this process as you will probably have to start all over again! Just follow the instructions to return to the status page to monitor the progress! You should see the status showing “updating” and once that is done the modem might restart! Just wait until it restarts and refresh your browser window to get back that page again, and if that still doesn’t work, reboot your computer and try connecting to the modem again at http://192.168.0.1 and go to the System Status page to make sure the download has completed.
After the update has completed and once you can access the home page in the modem at http://192.168.0.1 again, you should see an “OnSite Validation” Link. DO NOT CLICK ON THIS OR USE THIS PROCESS! You can only access this tool if you are a certified installer! Instead, find and click on the “Service Activation” link!
Follow the modem through the process and it will tell you when the process is complete and you should be online after that point!
If you go back to the modem home screen at http://192.168.0.1. it should look similar to this. It will have a green status indicator on the top left of the screen and the data circles showing up, means it’s online!
You should probably bookmark the modem Home Page at http://192.168.0.1 so that you can access it quickly and easily to check the Status and Data Circles!
Moving your System Around or Repeaking
In order to get to the installation menu once your system has been commissioned and activated, you must click on that hidden “i” icon again. It’s the same process for repeaking your dish, just run back through the installation process!
Help & Support
Everything you can do with your account is managed at https://lonepinetechnology.com/ispsat.
There you can add data, upgrade or downgrade your plan, suspend or re-activate your service and more!